Tag: thread

How to choose the right needle to sew or free motion with

Note: this needs editing

Your goal is to choose a needle that will make a hole for long enough time and also smooth enough that the thread will slide smoothly through the hole in the fabric. The hole shouldn’t be too big to appear permanent and shouldn’t be too small to cause problems, or compromise the strength of the fabric. The needle shouldn’t damage the fabric or the thread.

Here is a sequence of questions to ask yourself when choosing a needle.

  1. What kind of fabric? Woven or stretchy?
  2. What thread am I going to use?
  3. What is the fabric like in detail?
  4. What kind of sewing am I doing?

The Nitty Gritty Answers

Questions 1 and 2 is where you start. Questions 3 and 4 will fine tune to arrive at the best needle choice.

1. The kind of fabric will determine if you need a sharp or rounded needle point. Is the fabric woven or stretchy or knitted?

A. Woven? Is it tightly or loosely woven?

Tight or dense? choose a sharply pointed needle such as topstitch, microtex, universal because You want the needle to penetrate and damage as few fibers as possible. The fibers in a dense weave cannot move out of the way. So, sharper is better for this type of fabric.

Loose woven needs a ball or semi ball point, Because you want to push the fibers aside when it moves through the fabric.

Tight weaves don’t mix well with ball or blunt dull needles. The force of a blunt or ball point striking a dense weave will tear through the fibers and actually rip and pull them in the process, resulting in uneven, irregular holes and damage to the fabric. (Blunt can be a worn out old needle too.)

B. Stretchy, elastic or knitted fabric? All these types of fabric are loose. Choose a ballpoint needle , jersey or stretch needle . You want the needle to move through the fabric pushing away the elastic fibers not cutting though them.

2. What thread are you wanting to use? This will help determine approximately what eyehole type and size to use. The lighter or thinner the thread that is being sewn, the smaller the needle should be. You don’t want a big fat thick needle leaving a big hole behind. Conversely, you don’t want a hole that is too small and the thread runs and wears out , maybe shredding or breaking as it passes through the hole because it’s rubbing on the fabric.

2A. Is it heavy or lightweight thread?

In general, these size needles go with these size threads.

120/19 – some kinds of industrial threads

110/18 – 12 wt thread

100/16 – 30 wt thread , maybe 12 wt

90/14 – 40 wt thread

80/12 – 50 wt thread

75/11 – 50 wt thread

60/10 – 60 wt thread

65/9 – 100 wt thread

2. B. Is your thread strong or weak?

cotton or trilobal polyester? Universal, denim, topstitch or microtex

Weak like an embroidery rayon type of thread? Then choose an embroidery needle or needle with a deeper groove like microtex. The deeper groove will protect the thread from rubbing on the fabric. Don’t have an embroidery needle try go up one size as if the thread were heavier than it is.

2.c is your thread metallic? Use a metallic or microtex needle. Also if having problem lubricate the thread on the spool w thread ease or sewing machine oil. some sewing machines have an add on for lubricating your thread after it comes off the spool. Metallic thread wear out needles faster. I suggest a titanium coated needle especially when sewing with metallic thread.

3. What is the fabric like that you will sew on? In general, the lighter or thinner the fabric that is being sewn, the smaller the needle should be.

Is it tightly woven or very dense or very heavy? Go up a needle size OR choose a needle type with a larger groove or eye hole such as a top stitch or microtex or embroidery.

4. What type of sewing are you doing? Embroidery with its usually weaker thread and lots of densely packed stitches is helped by using an embroidery needle wish has a deep groove to protect the thread.

Are you sewing a lot of layers? Or just piecing two layers? Lots of layers might need a size up.

5. How old is the needle you are using?

A general rule of thumb is to change a needle every 8 hours or at the beginning of every project. BUT! The fabric will tell you when to change the needle by making a “pok-pok” sound. As the wear gets worse, the sound will become louder. I find on my long arm, a needle starts making the pok pok sound at about two or three hours. The sound occurs when fibers are being punched and torn.

Microtex needles make beautiful stitches but because they have very pointed long “noses” that are more easily damaged they must be changed more often. Note: this is my favorite needle type. I use the titanium coated ones in order to get more life from them.

Other needle options:

An interesting needle to try for free motion is the schmetz spring needle. It replaces the need for a specialized free motion foot. And so clears the area to more easily see your work. It also come varieties for different types of fabric such as topstitch, ballpoint, stretch, denim, quilting.

Remember in the scheme of things needles are cheap! Change them often! Needles are specialized for different combinations of thread, fabric, and job. The wrong needle will cause shredding, breakage, and frustration.

Other questions

My thread spool says use a diff size needle… use what they recommend. Example Superior Thread microquilter says use a #14 or #16 needle. It is 100 wt thread and works great with those size needles! Normally 100 wt threads use a thinner needle. But Superior microquilter is super strong and is designed for using with the larger needle size. But, 100 wt silk thread on the other hand sews better for me with a thinner needle like a #10 or #9.

What do the needle numbers mean?

Needles usually are denoted by two numbers. The bigger number is the diameter of the needle in 1/100’s of a millimeter. The smaller number is an arbitrary U.S. notation. In general the smaller the number the thinner the needle.

If you use a #75/11 or #80/12 size needle for 50 weight thread, you should use a needle with a larger eye when sewing with a heavier thread. I recommend a size #90/14 when sewing with a 40 wt. thread and a #100/16 needle when sewing with a 30 wt or 12 wt. thread.

Is your thread shredding or skipping stitches?

First try a new needle, old needles can get burrs or sharp areas. Second, check your threading path (rethread), third, check your tension if you changed thread thickness, your tensions will be different. Also check the quilt top tension between the leader bars, too taite will cause this problem if on a longarm, fourth, try a new needle and go up one size. Check your needle plate for burrs.

Titanium Needles?

Yes!!! https://freeformquilts.com/2014/11/25/titanium-needles-are-not-too-expensive/

Not all thread is equal

I have NOT written about thread as in brands, twists and weight and how it affects seam allowance in piecing. It does, so I’m writing about it now.

I have to write about this.. I really do! I’ve written previously about how you choose your needle based upon the fabric and then you choose your thread. I’ve written about thread weight and how it looks and how it affects tension in the longarm (and the regular sewing machine. I have NOT written about thread as in brands, twists and weight and how it affects seam allowance in piecing.

THREAD MATTERS AND AFFECTS piecing big time!

Also some thread is linty and some wears your needle out faster.

So far, I have found using the three biggies (as in popular brands) in the quilting world the following.

Some thread is lintier.

Lintier, I’m not sure lintier is even a word. But there it is, I don’t like to clean out my bobbin area every time I switch out a bobbin especially when I”m in a quilt piecing frenzy. I’ve found from the cleanest (top of the list) to the lintiest (bottom of the list):

  • Cleanest
  • Superior Masterpiece 100% cotton 50/3
  • Aurifil MAKO NE 50/2
  • Mettler 100% cotton 50/3
  • Coats and Clark
  • Lintiest

Thread isn’t the same thickness

Thread affects my quarter inch seams. I sew almost always with Superior Masterpiece 100% cotton 50/3, so my eyeball is trained to “see” the amount of fabric to the right of the needle to give me a quarter inch seam. When I use a different thread.. it always affects my seam. I am pretty sure it is because the thread takes up some space. So thicker thread needs to be sewn with a “scant-ier” quarter inch seam than my normal seam. Mettler, even though it is 50/3 (like Masterpiece), is a bit thicker than the Superior Masterpiece 50/3. I’ve learned that to get the same finished size of a block with Mettler I have to sew a scant quarter inch and with Superior a real quarter inch. Aurifil acts more like Superior thread than Mettler, yet it still in between the two other brands. No one sees your seam allowances so if you switch thread (or machines) sew a quick test to make sure your finished blocks are the same.

Thread takes up space on the bobbin

Yes, it should be obvious. But somehow I just didn’t think about it much. You can’t wind as long an amount of thick thread as you can thin thread. I’ve taken to using Superior Bottom Line in my bobbin for just this reason. It’s super strong and it’s THIN! Yipee, I don’t have to change bobbins as often. I don’t get caught in the middle of a long seam because I didn’t think to check if my bobbin is going to run out. Talking about the threads I’ve mentioned above, here is a list about how long my bobbin lasts when wound with each one.

  • Lasts longest
  • Superior Bottomline 100% polyester  60/2
  • Superior Masterpiece 100% cotton 50/3
  • Aurifil MAKO NE 50/2
  • Mettler 100% cotton 50/3
  • Lasts not very long (have to wind bobbin more often)

*I quit using Coats and Clark because it’s just too darn linty. So I don’t remember how it is in the bobbin, thus it isn’t on the list about bobbin changing frequency.

As to why each thread is a different thickness, I’ve posted about thread weight 50 vs 60 etc. Thread weight isn’t very accurate when comparing different brands of thread because there really isn’t a standard system. So in my examples above, at first glance, it doesn’t make sense that the Aurifil Mako NE 50/2 is thicker than the Superior Masterpiece 50/3. However the differences I’ve experienced seem to be the truth of it.

Superior has a great article about thread weight here. UNDERSTANDING THREAD WEIGHT

So why would I use the lintier thicker threads? I want the effect they create sometimes. Sometimes I need a specific color and the nearest shop doesn’t have the brand I want. Sometimes I just got a sample, or a free spool. Sometimes, I just try something new. I do a lot of couching on the surface and I buy a lot of different threads for that purpose and I might need a specific color that I don’t have in my preferred piecing brand.

 

My new use for an old spool tool

I was getting frustrated with trying to control a very long binding I was putting on a king size quilt. I tried throwing it over my shoulder. I tried putting it on a paper towel cardboard tube. I tried draping it over my sewing machine. Finally, I tried my trusty cone holder! Success!

Machine Experiments with 12 Weight Thread : Part 1

Adding to this post over time will allow me to keep track of what I try with this very thick thread. I resort to hand stitching when that is the ONLY way to get the effect I want. Superior Threads has a new thread that looks delicious for both hand sewing and also mentioned that their Sew Sassy 12 wt/3-ply Polyester thread can be run through a machine. This thread is kinda fuzzy and thick and looks like cotton, but doesn’t break like cotton. I know that you can put just about anything in a bobbin. But Superior mentioned running it through a needle!?! Really? I have to try this.

Experiment 1: Using 12 wt Sew Sassy on the Innova Longarm

Working on a improvisational modern quilt, I wanted to try out comic book drawing theory. The basic idea is that thin lighter lines that more closely match the background recede into the distance while heavier bolder thicker lines come forward into the foreground. I quilted the background with 60 wt Bottom Line thread. I also quilted some of the shapes that should appear towards the back of the arrangement with 50 wt and 40 weight threads. One shape should appear to be floating out on top in the front and I though I would try Sew Sassy 12 wt. Also to echo the plan on the back of the quilt, I decided to use the Sew Sassy in the bobbin also. I figured that it would be easier to balance the tension if the same thread were in the top and bottom of the machine.

Need a Big Needle

Superior recommends a size 21 needle. , a very THICK needle. Necessary as this thread is very thick.

I had to “loosen” the bobbin tension screw as the thread is thicker and effectively caused a tight tension. I use the TOWA gauge and got it to about 180. That is what I aim for no matter the size of the thread.

Timing adjustments may be necessary

Test sewing showed very odd results. The stitching shows that this super thick needle is actually deflecting during stitching. This needle is so thick it should not be deflecting at all. I slowly turned the machine by hand through one stitch cycle. I believe I will have to re-time the machine with the thick needle in place.
I will try this out after I get this particular quilt off the frame.

Fabric Type Matters

Also the thickness of the needle is causing some problems with the cotton quilt backing fabric. It is spreading the weave apart so much that it looks like the fabric might easily tear at this stitching line. I do think with a very loose weave fabric such as wool, felt or even burlap (art quilt anyone?) that it will be very possible to use Sew Sassy in the needle on my long arm.

Possible Next Tests with 12 wt Sew Sassy:

Try using a fabric with thicker fibers and looser weave.
Reset Bobbin distance and timing so I can use a 21 needle on my longarm.
Make sure to adjust tension both in the bobbin and top tension assembly.

On Long Arm Quilting with Monofilament

For Superior Threads Monopoly in the top and Bottom Line (or any thread in the bobbin) in the bobbin. I use the TOWA tension gauge to set my bobbin case to a value of 180. I loosen my top tension knob about 2.5 turns.

This week on my facebook longarm quilt group, a member asked about using monofilament. I mentioned monofilament in a blog post https://wordpress.com/post/freeformquilts.com/626 a while back. Now that I have experimented more with monofilament I need to save my observations here.

I want a monofilament that sews like regular thread but “disappears” into the background fabric so that the quilting and fabric are emphasized instead of the thread lines. After many combinations and brands of monofilament, I finally came up with a repeatable easy solution that works every single time for me. I use Superior Threads Monopoly in the top and Superior Threads So Fine in my bobbin.

Thread Chemistry affects stitching

I tested several clear monofilament threads. Mono filament thread is a single continuous strand of fiber of polyester. Polyester seems to be stronger than other monofilament thread types.

Nylon monofilament threads stretched more and I didn’t like using them, even when I had all the tension loosened way up, they still stretched. I didn’t like how it formed stitches and I liked even less how much they could pull fabric up and warp it.

Quality of thread manufacturing also affects the stitch out. A single strand that is made to exacting thickness will give a consistent result. In a multi fiber thread, slight variations of thread thickness are compensated by the multiple fibers. In a mono filament, a thinner section of thread can cause breakage and malformed stitches.

Once I got my machine setup to form beautiful stitches Superior’s Monopoly did not break. Monopoly also comes in both a clear and a smoke color.  Monopoly is matte finishe and so you don’t see a “sparkle” when looking at the quilt from an angle. The smoke is also clear but smokey looking which is great on darker fabrics as light reflectance is minimal and this thread really disappears on dark backgrounds. Due to its matte finish and strength and consistent stitching, I greatly prefer Superior Threads Monopoly.

What is monofilament?

Keep in mind any mono (one strand) filament thread is going to be weaker than a two strand or three strand thread, to compensate that one strand is going to be a little thicker than the single strand of a multi-strand thread. It’s worth mentioning because you might observer that the thread is a little thinner than what you would normal consider for a specific needle size. In face Superior is only .1 mm thick! Needle choice will have a BIG impact on stitching with monofilament. Try first what the manufacturer of that thread suggests. It really does matter.

Needle Size

Superior recommends a #14 needle. I generally use a #14 needle but may go up to a #18 needle in certain cases. If it seems the needle flexing is causing the monopoly to break, go up to a bigger needle size. This is more of an issue when freemotion quilting with monopoly. A thicker/bigger needle is stronger and going to flex less.

Threading path changes

If I am having the monopoly break, I check my threading path. I thread through the only one hole in the top guide post instead of the normal winding around through both holes on the top guide.

Tension really matters

The key to beautiful stitches with Monopoly is your thread tension balance between the top and the bottom. You will need to loosen your top tension. On my Innova two to three full turns to loosen the top tension knob are required. Exactly how much depends on the thread I choose for the bobbin.

Bobbin Thread Affects Stitching with Monofilament

I have found that using monofilament in the top and bobbin really doesn’t work. Monofilament, because it is only one strand of fiber, is very slippery. The monofilament will not “grab” onto another monofilament thread and so the stitch doesn’t form and hold. Sometimes the stitches even skip completely. To get a good stitch formation, I have found that using a multi filament thread in the bobbin is a must. The multi-filament thread will grab the monofilament and form a better stitch.

I choose my bobbin thread based up on the effect I want to see on the back of the quilt. If I want the bobbin thread to have a disappearing effect, I will choose a bobbin thread such as #60 bottom line by Superior and very closely match the color to the quilt backing. Bonus to this combo is that Bottom Line is very thin and a LOT of yardage fits on a bobbin. Less bobbin changes is a very good thing in my mind. I often use #50 weight of many types such as cotton or trilobal polyester. I rarely go to a thicker thread, but have successfully used #40 weight polyester thread too.

Bobbin Case and Tension

The key to the bobbin thread no matter the thickness, is to have consistent tension.I keep repeating this because it is just that important.  I have a TOWA bobbin gauge and that has made all the difference in my long arm quilting. GET ONE!

Summary of What I Do to Set Up for Monopoly

For Superior Threads Monopoly in the top and Bottom Line (or any thread in the bobbin) in the bobbin. I use the TOWA tension gauge to set my bobbin case to a value of 180.  I loosen my top tension knob about 2.5 turns. Then I test on the edge of the quilt sandwich set and adjust only my top tension knob either looser or tighter to get a perfect stitch. I also test after each bobbin change or whenever I feel the stitch isn’t right.

Problem Solving Tips

  • Pokies on the top = loosen top tension and/or check bobbin tension with gauge
  • Pokies on the bottom = tighten top tension and/or check bobbin tension with gauge
  • Shredding thread.. quilt fabric and batting tension might be too tight. Bop it and see how it bounces. I have a habit of making this too taut.
  • Refer to my troubleshooting notes.

 

Most Unlikely of all Sewing Aids is Sex Lube

I like a challenge. One of my friends told me that I spend too much money on “Sewing Stuff”. So I set out to find alternatives to things I can buy in a quilt shop. This is the first in a series I plan to write about those alternatives. I decided to start with something that would make her eyes pop.

I like to free motion quilt with metallic thread. My machine handles it really well if I use the correct needle, turn the tension down a bit, and lubricate the thread.

Bernina’s Thread Lubricator Guide is fantastic. The guide comes with a tiny vial of silicone lubricant. You put a single drop of silicone lube on the felt pad, stick your thread in the groove and thread your machine like normal. The wee itty bitty bit of lube really makes a huge difference. However… the Bernina and thus its included guide fall into the spending money category. I had to find an el cheapo alternative for ‘any’ machine. Someone suggested mineral oil.. but hey that stuff smells, I’m not sure I want that around my fabric.

Before I got the fancy schmancy thread guide for my Bernina, I would buy Sewer’s Aid thread lubricant and put a thin stripe on my spool of metallic thread. This stuff is between 6-9 bucks for a little half ounce bottle. And, it’s made of liquid silicone. I also know for a fact that the Bernina lube is silicone. So here is where does the “sex” comes in.

Well… I couldn’t find that little bottle of Sewer’s Aid and it was 8 bucks so I really didn’t want to buy more of it being that I was on the “Cheap Challenge”. What did I have around that was silicone and liquid and cheap?

Image of a sample size of ID Millennium Lube
This sample size hold .1 ounces of lube. Perfectly safe for no leak carrying and ready when you are (for lubricating your thread that is).
A funny elf put a cute little sample size of ID Millennium lube in my Christmas stocking. Millennium supposed is incredibly good for doing the deed in a hot tub because it is liquid silicone and doesn’t dilute or wash off in the water. I was really hoping I was getting a hot tub for Christmas. But, alas, that was not to be. Hoping to have a hot tub tryst at some point in the future, I kept that little packet in a drawer. Knowing it was liquid silicone, now was the time to pull it out. Honestly if I’m not going hot tubbing with the hubby, a little late night experimental quilt action fulfills some of my needs pretty well.

A teensy dab of ID Millennium lube on my spool of thread and wa-la! It works!

I also found out a couple of drops of ID Millennium silicone lube is a great substitute for a Supreme Slider. Two drops of sex lube on a piece of batting, rub it around on my sewing surface and wow… It lasted a long time too. It isn’t icky, slimy, smelly, or any of those things. I priced a 12 ml tube (just under half ounce) and it’s about two bucks. At the one or two drop at a time rate I’ll use it, it will last practically forever.

Now about that tryst… I’m still holding out for a hot tub.

Titanium needles are not too expensive

Titanium coated needles are sharper, lasts longer and end up being cheaper in terms of how many needles I need to use to quilt the same number of miles of thread.

As a quilter, 90% of my free motion to date has been on cotton fabric, I delve into silks on occasion. I like top stitch needles for most of my sewing. Top stitch needles have a longer eye and deeper groove which protects the thread from rubbing and wear as it passes through the fabric and into the bobbin mechanism. I also spend just a little more on the titanium needles. I’ve been told by some of my friends that I’m crazy for doing so. I don’t think I am at all. Here’s why.

Being called titanium needles is really a misnomer. They actually are titanium-coated needles. The titanium doesn’t make the needle stronger in terms of not breaking, But it does make it wear longer against rubbing. And thread is abrasive, so is fabric. A regular needle lasts maybe 8 hours of sewing and needs to be swapped out. Thread will wear in the eye of the needle and fabric will wear the tip of the needle.

I’ve found a titanium coated needle stays sharper and lasts 2-3 times longer. It’s true that the titanium needles are more expensive if you compare needle to needle. But you can’t. Due to the life of the needle a titanium needle will last 3x the life of the regular needle. And they do not cost 3x the price. So I believe titanium needles are actually cheaper in terms of how many needles I need to use to quilt the same number of miles of thread.

And for metallic threads.. which I like to use a lot when free motion quilting… titanium is the way to go. Metallic and Top Stitch needles are identical. Same eye size, same groove, same tip shape.. So I use my better wearing titanium top stitch needle for metallic thread. Often shredding of metallic thread is caused by incorrect needle size or by a worn eye on the needle. A titanium needle lets me sew longer. I use a 90/14 for most metallic threads I own.

Do I use regular needles? Yes, I do. I can’t alway find titanium needles and I am going to sew anyway.

Thread Weights and Needle Sizes for Free Motion

You may hear a lot of things about what is the best or the only weight thread to use for free motion or longarm quilting. Personally I don’t think there are any rules. As long as you choose your thread, evaluate your fabric and then choose the appropriate needle for thread-fabric combo AND are willing to tweak your tension settings, you can free motion with almost any thread. Your machine just has to accept it. Some machines can be finicky about weights of threads or even material the thread is made of. Often you can tweak or adjust your method to help use it.

Quick Guide to Thread/Needle Size
Thread Wt Needle
40 wt 90/14
50 wt 80/12
60 wt 70/10
100 wt 70/10
12-30wt 100/16
MonoPoly

(Invisible monofilament)

 70/10

Normally I go to a 50 weight cotton or polyester trilobal thread. I really like threads by Superior Threads, though I am not married to their products. Using a 80/12 Topstitch needle works great with their King Tut, Manifico and Fantastico lines. I have found that as long as I use the same thread in top and bobbin of my machine, I do not have to adjust tension at all.

Note: Superior Threads note on their spools and cones which tell you which size needle is recommended for that particular thread.

If I want a thicker line of thread to show, I will use a 40 weight thread. There are free motion people out there who do not like this thread. But I believe that if the look you want requires a 40 weight go ahead and use it. A 90/14 needle works great.

Thick threads have smaller weight numbers, while bigger needles have bigger numbers. Thread and needle sizes run in opposite directions.

You can even free motion with a 30 weight thread if you want, however, put it in your bobbin of your machine. Thick threads do not work in the top of a domestic sewing machine and will shred or mess up your top tension discs. So in the bobbin it must go. This is often called “bobbin work”. The process is the same, you will just have to work from the back side of your quilt so the heavy thread in the bobbin shows up on the front. If you think your machine could handle a 30 weight thread,  you would probably use a 100/16 needle.

Thinner threads than 50 can look really neat. Using silk 100 weight thread for example can have a really nice look. Some of the top free motion people who win shows use silk almost exclusively. I would try a 70/10 needle for this.

Monofilament is also an interesting choice. Typically it is almost colorless. It will really “disappear” into the quilt so the texture is really evident and the thread is almost unnoticeable. There are two types, nylon and polyester. In years past, monofilament, which was made from nylon, got a bad rap because in the early days when it was invented it was very stretchy. So it was difficult to use. You would have to go very slow and have very low tension settings. Nylon also melts at lower temperatures than other fibers. Lower temperatures mean more stringent rules for care of the quilt, you can’t iron it, must wash on low, etc. Newer polyester fiber is in several brands of monofilament. My experience has been with Superior’s Monopoly. It requires a couple more ‘numbers’ lower on the top tension and I do tend to go slower with it. But it really has a nice look, washes on medium heat, and can be ironed. It’s great for trapunto too. Monopoly is slightly matte and that helps it disappear too. It comes in a light/clear and smokey clear for using on darker fabrics. I don’t hesitate to use the light monopoly on dark fabrics if I do not have the smoke available. It really is fun to use.

I am so not the Queen of Organization, but this organizer rocks!

20130924-234448.jpgI used to, well I still do, keep scores of thread cones in baskets. I love thread almost as much as I love fabric. I always had a problem keeping tack of all the threads currently being used on the three or four projects that I seem to jump between. Until now –drum roll please–I have found the most awesome cone thread holder in the world. Yep! I think I have.

I use those 3000 meter spools from Isacord, Aurifil, Superior, Sulky, Floriani, and a few others, so the run of the mill thread holders for those dinky spools just wouldn’t do. ROM Woodworking of Modesto, California, is making some of the nicest oak thread holders I’ve ever seen and now am using. I bought the Ultimate Felicia Thread Holder. It is both free standing or wall hanging. So it is easily moved around your workspace Or put away on the wall. It can also hold your basic larger rulers and cutting matt in slots on the back of it. And, it holds 96 spools of thread. The thread holder rods are thicker than the ones on those mass produced things you buy in the crafty stores. It is made of furniture grade solid oak. The edges are all routed and finished. It’s sturdy without being ugly. It is simply fantastic.

A-plus! Thank you ROM.

By the way, in addition to thread holders, they make ruler holders, spinning notions holders, and all kinds of sizes too. They even make floor standing spinners that would be great for a longarmer or professional embroiderer. This is definitely something that anyone sewing would be interested in.

Hey, I’m not being paid to endorse these products… I just really like them and wanted to give a shout out about it.